The First Week at Home

After having been gone for 6 months, I have now been home for 10 days and a quick summary is in order.

The day of departure from Israel was spent leisurely at the apartment in the morning. I was all packed and ready to go by 9 AM even though I was not really expecting to be picked up until somewhere between 1 and 2 PM. I guess I was a bit anxious to be on my way home after so long away. I was picked up by friends at about 1:30 PM. They wanted to spend some time at the sea, so we headed to Tel Aviv. I must admit that while going to the Mediterranean Sea initially sounded OK; once I was there it only made me more anxious to get to the airport and be on my way. The last time I was at the sea was 11 years earlier with my wife. While being at the beach is usually soothing, this time it made me miss her more and I took the time to separate myself from my friends and call home.

The life-style in Tel Aviv is vastly different from Jerusalem. While Jerusalem is unquestionably the spiritual capital of the world, Tel Aviv is significantly more secular. While most restaurants in Jerusalem are kosher, finding a kosher restaurant in Tel Aviv takes a little more looking.

I did manage to take a few pictures in Tel Aviv of some buildings that I found “interesting” architecturally, but have no idea what the first two actually are. The last is clearly a hotel and is about 2 blocks from the sea.






After a quick dinner, my friends dropped me off at the airport. This was at about 8:30 PM for a 1 AM flight. While there was technically no hurry at all, I was getting anxious to go and was emotionally already gone.

Security at Ben Gurion Airport is, of necessity, the best in the world. By the time you get into the terminal building you have already been screened at least twice without any interaction with anyone. Once inside you stand in a line to check in and check baggage. A security screener takes you aside and asks a few questions. While they actually ARE listening to the answer, they are paying more attention to your face and body language, looking for anything that would indicate a problem. This includes profiling, and I have absolutely no issue with that at all. While they do use metal detectors, they do not and will not use the full-body scanners being deployed in airports around the world as they consider them too expensive, too slow and, most importantly, completely ineffective. They are instead deploying other advanced technology that should be quite effective and speed up the security process. (Check out this link for more information: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/moslive/article-1336571/Terrorism-Can-really-stop-bomber-asking-Are-terrorist.html?printingPage=true)

The flight from Israel to New York was quite uneventful. The wait to get from New York to Chicago was 8 hours, and I certainly could have done with a much shorter layover. By the time I left Chicago on my final flight I was more than ready to be home again. Arriving at the airport at home and seeing my wife waiting for me at the exit doors to the secure area made the rest of the trip vanish from my mind completely. Suffice it to say that it was a very happy reunion. We went straight from the airport to our traditional restaurant for dinner, and both my wife and I commented that it seemed as if we had not been apart.

The ensuing week was spent in the normal fashion – my wife went to work while I stayed home and practiced and also did some of the outstanding yard work that inevitably must be done. Our youngest son came home on Wednesday afternoon, and the oldest son came home on Thursday night. Our youngest daughter will be here this Wednesday, and the house will be as full as it gets for this trip.

This past Shabbat I was given the honor of leading the Shacharit service at our synagogue. I used a combination of the new hazzanut I have learned and the old nussach that they are used to hearing. It was a wonderful feeling to be able to use some of my new knowledge and skills at the shul that has been my spiritual home for a number of years and to hear the comments from people who recognized the difference in my sound and leadership since beginning my studies. I hope to lead again before returning to Israel to complete my training.

As always when I lead services, I felt a connection to Hashem. I must say, however, that it is nothing at all like the connection I feel in Jerusalem. When attending services last Shabbat, and indeed even just being away from Jerusalem, I feel a certain ---- emptiness? ---- it is hard to put into words. I asked a friend of mine in Israel about it, and her response was “Your high level of spirituality wants you to be as close to the Shechinah as possible and the Shechinah is only in Israel. That's basically what you're missing.” This is all still new to me, but I think that she is correct. I guess I’ll have to see how I feel when I get back to Jerusalem in just over 2 weeks.

Going Home for a Visit

I am now all packed and ready to travel home to visit my family. I am excited about going since I have been away for 6 months now.

I will probably post a few things while at home, but the "running commentary" will resume when I return to Jerusalem on 5 January 2011.

Eighth Night of Hanukkah in Jerusalem

Tonight is the last night of Hanukkah. I decided to go to the Kotel take some pictures and pray.

On my way there I walked through the Mamilla Mall. This is a shopping area attached to the Mamilla Hotel located on the corner of Kind David and Jaffa streets. The mall runs from King David Street all the way to the Jaffa Gate of the Old City. At this time of year the mall is decorated for Hanukkah, and the next three pictures show some of those decorations

As you can clearly see, the overhead area is completely lit up with strings of blue and white lights. There is also a menorah overhead that is lit up and visible in the second and third pictures below.





This next picture was taken outside of a synagogue on Jewish Quarter Street in the Old City and shows a case holding several menorahs (menorot). (Part of the mitzvah of lighting the menorah is to make sure that the light can be seen outside of the building. Here that is taken literally and they are moved to the outside.)



Next is a picture of the menorah at the Kotel.



Following is a picture of a menorah mounted above the Kotel plaza.



At the exit from the Mamilla Mall there are steps leading up to the Jaffa Gate. This next picture is of a menorah set up outside the gate.



This last picture shows the decorations on King George Street.



As I mentioned above, I went to the Kotel to take some pictures and to pray. While I certainly knew it was the last night of Hanukkah I was not aware of any other significance to the day. As I walked into the area of the Kotel everything seemed quite normal to me. I was aware of all the other people around jockeying for position to take pictures and of others there to pray. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary while I was walking around.

There WAS a difference, though. In the past I have mentioned feeling a remote presence while leaning against the Wall and meditating. Tonight was very different. I started to feel a presence when I was a couple feet from the Wall. When I touched the Wall it was almost like a shock. There was a strong presence that I have no words to describe. It was not just that I knew I was in a holy place, but that I could in fact FEEL the presence of Hashem about me. I did NOT want to leave.

Unfortunately I had to go. I had arrangements to meet a friend for dinner at ben Yehuda Street. After we settled on a place to eat, sat down and had ordered I mentioned the experience to my friend. She told me that this night is also called the Night of the Shekhinah by the mystics, on which the presence of the Shekhinah is more ….. palpable?? [According to Wikipedia: Shekhinah (alternative transliterations Shekinah, Shechinah, Shekina, Shechina, Schechinah, שכינה) is the English spelling of a grammatically feminine Hebrew language word that means the dwelling or settling, and is used to denote the dwelling or settling presence of God (cf. divine presence), especially in the Temple in Jerusalem.] She also told me that most people feel nothing at all and only those that are sensitive will perceive anything. Needless to say, I was amazed by this. It is going to take me quite a while thinking about it to even begin to comprehend, but I feel truly humbled and blessed by the experience.

Shabbat/Hanukkah

As usual, I had an “interesting” Shabbat this weekend. My flat mate went to visit relatives, leaving me on my own. This is really only about the 4th time I have been alone for Shabbat since I got here.

I went to the conservative shul for Friday night services. Instead of the cantor, services were led by 2 girls. I found out later that one is going into the army in the next couple of weeks. While the co-leaders had nice voices, they clearly did not know about restraint and at times overpowered the congregation. I only notice this because I have a tendency to do the same and have been actively working on not doing that. While the melodies were familiar, I also noticed that there were variations between the way the music is written and they way it was performed. (I have the music for some of the melodies and have heard this before.) The congregation seems to like the melodies of Shlomo Carlebach as they did a number of prayers using close approximations of his melodies.

I thought that, because I was invited to a friend’s mother’s apartment for Shabbat dinner and the conservative shul was about half-way there that this would be a perfect “plan”. As it turned out, services ended at about 5:45 and I was not supposed to be there until 7. I took the opportunity to wander into the Great Synagogue and then decided that, since I still had over an hour before the invitation, I would walk back to the apartment to relax for a few minutes and grab my hat. (I recently got a haircut and it was getting cold so thought this would help keep me a bit warmer, especially on the way back when it would be even cooler. I was right, it did.)

I walked to my friend’s mother’s place, arriving there at about 6:55. There were 3 other people beside my friend that I knew, plus my friend’s son and his girlfriend. As I had met my friend’s family before, I know everyone that was there. This was somewhat of a pleasant surprise, as I never know who I am going to run into when going somewhere for Shabbat dinner.

The dinner was marvelous, and I stayed until almost 10:30. My friends and I all started walking together towards a point where we would split up and go our separate ways. When we got to that point, 2 of them headed off one way and I started walking with the other. As we were walking and talking, I found out that she lives in the Old City. She indicated that she was not really comfortable walking alone by Independence Park, so I walked with her all the way to some stairs leading up to the Jaffa Gate at the end of the Mamilla Mall. Along the way we say a “giant” dreidel in a store window. (I have posted a picture of it below that was taken on my walk Sunday morning.) The walk back to the apartment from the Old city was another 35 minutes and I was quite “pooped” and had sore feet from all the walking. Still, it was a wonderful evening.

On Saturday morning I got up late and walked to the reform temple for services. (They start later, so I did not have to miss anything.) Once again after services I stayed to talk to the people, none of whom I know, for almost an hour. Some of the congregants and officers commented on my voice and asked me if I would perform there for them. While it was gratifying to know that they wanted me to perform in a cantorial role for them, there are too many changes to the liturgy that would be required and that I am not comfortable with for me to do so.

After Shabbat was over I lit the Hanukkia, a special menorah used for Hanukkah. After lighting the candles and sitting down to watch them for a few minutes my thoughts turned to my wife, who is alone in the US now. I was once again awed by her strength. I must admit that I felt sad that we were not together for the holiday, but am also gladdened by the fact that I will see her in a few days.

On my stroll Sunday morning I walked to the Kotel and back. I walked past the Prime Minister’s house and the demonstration area in support of Gilad Shalit and took pictures of the area they have set up for Hanukkah.




Since I did not post this at the time, I wanted to also show the display they had set up for Sukkot. (This display is still up.)



I mentioned a large dreidel that I saw on Friday night. Following is a picture of it.




Walking in the Old City, on one of the approaches to the Kotel, is a large golden menorah that is a replica of the ones from the second Temple.




On the way back, also in the Old City, I came across a shop that sells models of the Temple Mount as it appeared during the times of the Second Temple.




Finally, I saw a T-shirt that I liked and that needs no additional explanation.

Last night was my last cantorial lesson before going home to visit my family. It was a good lesson in that most of what I have been working on is now done, and I was given the music for the remaining portions of the morning service for Shabbat to work on while at home.

I went to the Kotel (the Western Wall) this morning to thank Hashem for my progress so far and to ask for his continued support in the weeks and months ahead (as well as other, more personal and private prayers).

This time, I brought my camera with and snapped a few pictures to share with you.

The first two pictures are of the approach to the Old City along Jaffa Street and of the Jaffa Gate.




The next pictures are of part of the market area as you enter the “streets” of the Old City. As you can clearly see, the streets are for pedestrian traffic only and are quite narrow.





The next 2 shots are of Jewish Quarter Street.




This next one is of a street in the Jewish Quarter that leads to an observation area for viewing the Kotel.



This is the view from the Kotel observation area.




As you can see in the next two pictures, there is an excavation project going on in the area in front of the Kotel.




Also taken from the observation area, this picture shows the Kotel’s Hanukkiah (the candelabra used to hold the Hanukkah lights; which could be candles, lanterns, gas or electric). Hanukkah is 2 days away so preparations are being made for the holiday.



After walking down to the Kotel I took a few more pictures in that area. The first is a closer shot of the Hanukkiah.



The next 2 pictures are of prayers that have been placed in the wall by visitors. This is a common practice and I know I have posted this before, but these pictures are much better quality than the previous ones so I thought I would post them for you.




The next few pictures were taken from just outside the walls of the Old City as I was walking back to the apartment. The first is a view of the valley from just outside the walls.



In the next 2 pictures of the walls themselves, you can clearly see the slits in the walls for armed defenders (archers).




While walking down the hill just outside the Old City I came across the cemetery where Oskar Schindler’s grave is located. I wandered around inside for a few minutes, but did not find the grave and there was nobody to ask. Perhaps I’ll go back again and take the time to find it. If so, I will post a picture here. (For those who may not know, Oskar Schindler was responsible for saving the lives of many Jews during the Holocaust. The movie “Schindler’s List” is based on his story.)



I know I have posted a picture of this before, but it bears doing so again. The next 2 pictures, also taken from just outside the Old City walls, shows the territory just across the valley from the Old City where the fence erected along the “Green Line” (the armistice line) was erected. (If it looks REALLY close, that is because it IS!)




I took this last picture “just because”. I would expect to find Martin Luther King Street in the USA, but did not expect to see it in Jerusalem.

Shabbat in Jerusalem

This past Shabbat was spent in Jerusalem. (I LOVE saying that!!!) My flat-mate went to Tel Aviv for Shabbat, so I thought I would be alone for Shabbat dinner. I should have known better ----- this IS Israel after all.

I went to services at the main Conservative Shul here. I had been to Friday night services here once before, so was anticipating at least a few familiar melodies. I was not disappointed in that regard. Some of the other melodies they used were variants on some of the new melodies I have learned. I doubt that they are aware it is a variant, but I have the original score so noticed when there were slight changes to the tunes. This is not uncommon, most “congregational” melodies are slightly different from what the original composer and/or arranger wrote.

After services the cantor asked it I would like to go with her to the home of some friends of hers for Shabbat dinner. I agreed, and we started walking and talking along the way. I found that she had, at one time, been an actress and had roles in some Israeli films. She gave up that career to raise her 3 children. She apparently came from a secular background, but obviously has changed that about herself. While she is Israeli-born, she spent a number of years in the San Francisco area. It was during this time that she started learning hazzanut. I will not go into any more detail as I feel it would be inappropriate for this forum without her express permission.

The Shabbat dinner also turned out to be a Thanksgiving dinner (her friends are American) and also a birthday party for 2 people. In addition to Israel there were people there from Boston, Philadelphia and Miami. Dinner was wonderful, and so was the company and conversation.

After dinner I walked back to the apartment, a stroll that took about 20 minutes or so. In the morning I went back to the Conservative shul. I had met a friend there Friday night and thought that they would be there Saturday morning, but unfortunately that was not the case.

During the walk from the dinner back to the apartment I was accompanied part way by the cantor. She indicated that she had not totally gotten over an illness from a couple weeks ago and asked if I would be willing to lead the Shacharit (morning) service for her if needed. I told her that I would be honored to do so if she wished. It turned out that she did have me lead the service and, like last time, I was the recipient of the wonder feelings of warmth and purpose. I changed some of the melodies that I used last time to ones that the congregation knew (I asked about these in advance) to be sure that they could join in. I was later told by some of the congregants that they really appreciated both the hazzanut that I did alone and my using melodies that they could sing along with and that it made them feel more a part of the service. For me, that makes everything worthwhile. From my perspective, the job of a cantor is to create an inclusive and inviting atmosphere so that the, by being a conduit for Hashem, the congregation is encouraged to join in and participate in their own individual and communal spiritual growth.

All-in-all it was a wonderful Shabbat.

Sunday was dedicated to cantorial practice, as always. I have a class on Monday (today) to go over the material I have been given. Since Hanukkah starts on Wednesday evening and I am leaving for the US next week, this will likely be my last class until I return in January. As a result, I anticipate receiving more material tonight to work on while I am gone.

I am starting to get more excited about going home to visit and am anxiously waiting to be able to give my wife a HUGE hug. Only 11 days to go!

Holiday Decorations and "Stuff"

Well, it’s that time of year. Holiday decorations are going up all over the place. There is ONE difference, though ------- The decorations are NOT trees, but menorahs.

I was walking back to the apartment last night after class and noticed that the decorations were going up. I took a couple of pictures with the camera in my phone so that you could see what this looks like at night, then went back out on the prowl this morning to snap a few pictures in the daytime.

The first three pictures were taken last night.





This next group of pictures are of more decorations, but taken during the day as I was walking to the Nahlaot area of town. This is only about 5 minutes from Ben Yehuda Street.






The next pictures are of “streets”, or what pass for them, in Nahlaot. There are also 2 pictures of a sitting area in the middle of the “street”.












And now for the truly revolutionary and ultra-modern plumbing system here and the associated water-meters ………



On the way back to the apartment I ran across a yoga studio and felt compelled to take this picture. Yes, the sign IS transliterated into Hebrew saying "studio yoga".



Israel recycles!!!!! Maybe not as much as some other places, but there are recycling “bins” all over. This picture shows one for plastic (the mesh fenced area) and one for newspapers and cardboard.



Not to be outdone by anyplace else for “odd” trees, I took this picture a few blocks from the apartment. I have no earthly idea what kind of tree this is, but the trunk just looked strange so I just HAD to share it with you. (It should be noted that there is a very wide variety of trees here, and I could not even begin to count them all.)