I spent this past Shabbat at one of the Jewish settlements on the outskirts of Jerusalem. We were about a 50-minute bus ride from the Central bus station.
I must admit that I was a little nervous about going as I was meeting and staying with people that I did not know. On top of that, this is the type of settlements we hear about on the news daily. Please note that this blog is intended to be strictly an accounting of experiences, and I will make no statements here relative to the social or political situation as it applies to the settlements (or anything else, for that matter).
Arrival was late Friday afternoon, just about 90 minutes before Shabbat started. It was clear immediately that I was in a very special place. The air was clean and clear, and there was a general feeling of tranquility.
The feeling that Shabbat was coming soon was almost palpable. There was virtually no vehicular traffic at all. Everywhere we went we saw people walking alone or in small groups. Most were going to someone’s house before the start of Shabbat. It was evident that this was a place where it would be easy to fully observe all of the laws surrounding the Sabbath, and I truly looked forward to the opportunity to do exactly that.
I was made to feel most welcome after arriving at the home of the family I would be staying with Friday night. They were a wonderful couple with several very well-mannered children. It was obvious that all of the laws and traditions of Sabbath, as well as kashrus (the laws for keeping kosher) were known and followed there.
I came to find out later that there are a tremendous number of synagogues in the settlement, with one street having as many as 3. (I am not talking about long blocks here, either.) There are both Ashkenazi and Sephardic shuls throughout the settlement.
We welcomed the Sabbath at services on Friday night. There was a marvelous feeling of peace and tranquility throughout the area. There were NO vehicles on the roads here, unlike Jerusalem in which there is the occasional car or taxi even on Shabbat. After services everyone was walking in groups to various homes to enjoy a Sabbath meal. All were very friendly and certainly interested in the “stranger” in their midst. I was made to feel completely at home in this environment.
My hosts had prepared a wonderful meal, which was preceded by Kiddush (blessing over the wine) and HaMotzi (blessing over bread).There was lively conversation along with the meal. Even after the meal and Bircat HaMazon (blessings after a meal) the conversation continued for quite some time.
Saturday morning we went back to the same shul for services. I was honored to be called to open the ark to remove the Torah and also to return the Torah after the readings.They started at 8 AM and were concluded by a little after 10 AM. I am used to starting at 9 AM at home and not finishing until 12:30 or 13:00. I guess when the service is in the native tongue and everyone understands fully, things move along much faster.
As with last Shabbat there was really only one melody that was familiar to me. This I view as an opportunity to learn more melodies (where they are used) to add to my repertoire.
A while after lunch I was asked to go to a Sephardic shul to help make a minyan for Mincha (the afternoon service). This was the first time I had actually been to a Sephardic service and found that it was, as I expected, very similar to the Ashkenazi that I am more familiar with. The prayers are slightly different in some cases. I was called for an Aliyah (being called to the Torah to recite prayers before and after the reading) at this service, which is a great honor. This was my first Aliyah since my arrival, and it held special meaning for me.
Following Mincha I was able to take my usual Shabbat nap. Believe me, I needed it! It always feels good to take a nap on Shabbat, but there was something very special about being able to do it here in Israel.
A short while later I was taken to a Rabbi’s home, where we enjoyed more conversation and Shalosh Seudos (the third meal on Shabbat). After the meal I joined in Ma’ariv (the evening service) at a shul that the Rabbi was building at his home. This was followed by Havdalah (a service to separate the sacred Sabbath from the mundane weekdays) at the Rabbi’s home.
Unfortunately, Shabbat had come to an end and I had to catch the bus to go home. This was by far the most pleasant Shabbat that I have spent due to the full observance of all of the covenants of the Sabbath, and I look forward to repeating the experience. The level of peace and serenity I experienced this past Shabbat was beyond my expectations.
I would like to thank my friend Ayala for inviting me and making all the arrangements and to all of my hosts for their gracious hospitality, open hearts, stimulating conversation and Yidishkite.
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